A spectacular climb with a spectacular view, where falling AND watching people fall are both fun rather than stressful
The approach is a bit of a pain in the ass, and even being able to try the boulder is so dependent on the tides and whether or not the previous log/plank to the start hold was washed away
Everything before the big move out follows the obvious seam in the overhang.
The Beta: Starting circular hold is a mega jug — the bottom right side of it is the best part so i start my left hand there since the first move is out right anyways. First two moves are solid holds but not V0 jugs. You should have no problem as long as your feet as solid. I go right hand first, cross with my left, and set up my feet for the next move, This is the first reachy move out, but the hold you’re going to is very good. There’s room for about six of my fingers, so i use four fingers and then piano match when i cross my left hand in. The next move after matching is more or less the same move again — a reachy move to a relatively good hold. Note: This hold is smaller and probably not big enough to match on. The next hold (the last one you use along the seam) is the best hold you get after the starting jug. I opt to bump to it because I have the reach, some others cross into it — take your choice but i find the previous hold to be a little too small. Now for the big move, find the mediocre but adequate crimp on the right side of the horn, place a the toe on the foothold below your left hand, and then shoot for the “jug” up and to the right! After hitting the big move, I stab my right toe into the right side of the horn, match my left heel to be more or less where my left hand was, and bicycle squeeeze my feet + my core so i can bring my left hand up to the pinchy part of the lip. I make sure to leave enough room for my right hand, i match, work my hands over to the left, pray to the friction gods, then go for the mantle 🙏